|Late 13th Century Lampa brocade. Italy. V and A |
The challenge says "Make Something in Pattern, the bolder and wilder, the better." While bolder is better, you could go for something more subtle, like a nice damask (such as the green banyan further down the page). This means that plaids and stripes, visibly patterned twills (diamond twill, for instance), paisleys, various brocades and patterned velvets, and the wide variety of forms of printed fabrics are all distinct possibilities...plus fabrics which have been embroidered all over, quilted together, or crotchet/knit--so long as it has a visible all over pattern!
Bear in mind that a lot of the patterns--especially brocades, patterned velvets, and such--are all expensive materials...hence why the majority of the following examples are upper class. But that doesn't mean those of us who prefer lower class get left out...just may require more searching, is all.
For this post, since I'm not writing a massive article covering the history of all kinds of patterns fabrics (I thought about it...then my mind melted), I will be going chronologically, and trying to cater to everyone. When I began gathering images for this article, I found (and intended to find) far more than I could possible include--the rest are in a pinterest board, Pattern HSM. (Gentlemen, I'm trying to behave and not fill this article with brightly coloured waistcoats and banyans--select examples are in the board).
|Huldremose woman bog find--2nd century BC|
And so, we move forwards to the middle ages:
|Pierpont Morgan Library, Lisle hours (MS G.50). MS G.50 fol. 6v 1316-31|
|Altarpiece from the Castle of Santa Coloma de Queralt, ca. 1365. Museu d'Art de Catalunya, Barcelona.|
Conveniently, another blogger put together and shared an article giving a number of examples of patterned 14th century garments.
|Martyrdom of Saint Agnes. Missale ad usum fratrum minorum, c.1385-1390, Latin 757, f. 298r, Bibliothèque nationale de France.|
|La Quête du Saint Graal et la Mort d'Arthus, d. 6r. 3rd Quarter of the 1300s.|
|Boar and Bear Hunt (detail), 1425-1430, probably made in Arras, France. Museum no. T.204-1957. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London|
|Bianca Maria Sforza, probably 1493 Giovanni Ambrogio de Predis|
|Portrait of a young Lady from Lübeck (c. 1520)" by Jacob van Utrecht|
|Portrait of a Young Woman, Netherlandish (ca. 1535). Accession No. 49.7.32, MET.|
|Portret van een ridder in de orde van Calatrava, vermoedelijk van het geslacht Sorias of Sorea. (Knight of Calatrava). Frans Pourbus the Elder.|
I love this one--I wish I had noted the details (the slashed roll at the top of the collar and around the armscye) when I was working on my striped doublet.
|Portrait of Constance of Habsburg. 1626. Pieter Claesz. Soutman|
|Late 17th Century Mantua. MET, Accession no. 33.54a, b|
|"Recueil des modes de la cour de France, 'Dame de Qualité en Habit d'Esté'" at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Los Angele. 1682-83.|
|1725, Britsh. MET C.I.64.14|
|Bodice. 1735-50. National Trust NT 1349938.3|
|1742-50. Philadelphia Museum of Art 1995-98-8|
|1740s Banyan. British. MET 1981.352.4|
|2nd half of the 1700s. Centraal Museum|
|1765. LACMA M.2007.211.925a-b|
|1770s. Bunka Fashion College, Japan.|
|1778-85. MET C.I.65.13.2a–c|
|1785 Waistcoat. Colonial Williamsburg|
Double breasted waistcoat, made of silk, with silk twill trim on the front, hem, and welts/flaps.
|1800 Museo del Traje MT00402-MT00404|
|Evening shoes, English. 1800-10. Manchester Gallery
Along those lines, you also see heavily embroidered and fabric covered shoes from the 1700s and onward, which could be embroidered at home, and sent to the cordwainer to be assembled.
|1803 Swedish museum. 1923-10-09|
|1810 Gown, French. MET 11.60.227a–c|
|1815 Banyan. The MET 2009.300.999|
|1815 Redingote. Kyoto Costume Institute AC10793 2003-2-1|
|1815 France. LACMA M.2010.33.7|
|1838 Philadelphia Museum of Art 1936-23-2|
|1839 Eglinton Waistcoat. V and A |
|1850s Dress. Philadelphia Museum 1949-66-1a--c|
|1855 Waistcoat. LACMA M.2007.211.821|
Paisleys are under represented in this article, I know--not sure why. So, if that's your style, I'm going to point you at the Dreamstress's board gathering hundreds of examples of paisley in all kinds of clothing/accessories.
|1860-70 Wool suit. LACMA M.2010.33.9a-b|
|1860s Dress. Litchfield Historical Society 1973-20-3 A,B|
|1864 Boy's Dress. LACMA AC1997.191.16|
|1875 Dressing Gown. The MET 2009.300.124|
|1884 Bustle Dress. MnHS 9975.1.A,B|
|1910 Dress. Norsk Folkemuseum NF.1962-0395|
|1916 Silk Dress. FIDM Museum L2011.13.975|
|1929 Dress, LACMA 57.43a-b|
And now, I'm moving out of chronological, and into the smaller projects and accessories.
|1875 dress-improver V and A T.69-1980|
|1590-1610 Coifs. V and A |
|19th Century Bag. Smithsonian 1957-180-15|
|18th Cen. Garters. MFA 55.601a|
You also see heavily embroidered braces (suspenders), often made as a gift.
|Mid 18th Cen Gloves. Nordiska Museet |
|1790-1800, Manchester Art Gallery (supposedly. I was unable to find the page)|
|1750 American Handkerchief. The MET 2009.300.5290|
|Hussif. Philadelphia Museum 1909-110|
|17th century Gaming Purse. The MET 2009.300.2066|
This is by no means even close to a complete list of patterned garments--they were far too popular in most eras for that (and show up even more in the record, since patterned fabrics were expensive and more likely to be preserved in portraits or attics). As always, if you aren't certain whether the idea you have for your entry is suitable, contact myself or one of the other moderators.
SmoothSewing, and I look forwards to seeing what y'all come up with!
© John Frey, 2016. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this document for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies.